Ciao Lisa, I'm thrilled that you chose to visit and write about Chișinău! My wife and I spent an unforgettable week in Moldova for research on a 2011 wine feature in The Sommelier Journal. Our pal Jeff G. gave a nod in NYT's "What We're Reading" which really helped accelerate things in an industry ripe for international discovery. You really captured the capital's impenetrableness. I'll never forget the contrast of a run-down-looking metropolis with its bustling national opera and theatre. Maybe you also saw that Moldova's riches don't present in usual manners. Oh... and did everyone applaud when you landed? I hadn't experienced that before until our flight from Lisbon hit Chișinău and the plane erupted in cheers. Last thing... your time is 👌. I opened a bottle of Purcari (my fave Moldova winery) because Decanter's assigned to me a revisit of Moldova now fifteen years later. Who knows what the editor will change it to, but the opening line in my submitted draft is, "One of the wine world's most profound transformations is happening in Eastern Europe." Let's get more people talking about (and visiting) this fascinating country. PS. When can you, me and Emma Bentley clink cups of Moldova vino in Verona? Fondest, j.Tesauro https://www.themodgent.com/blog-edit/moldova
Jason! Your ears must have been burning because I was just telling Emma, when she was in Copenhagen a couple of weeks ago, that she should meet you. In any case, yes, I loved Moldova for its deep and quirky Moldova-ness, and although my introduction to its wines was scattershot at best, I’m more than happy to become an acolyte. ❤️
Can't wait to get back and jump into some zama and plăcinta. I loved the food there so very much. Everyone we met, whether or not they had electricity or a second pair of shoes, shared the bounty of their gardens and whatever was bubbling on the stove. The generosity of spirit made as much an impression as the texture of those wines. And yes yes to Emma... always room for new fab friends.
Enjoyed this in-depth piece very much. And it proves that we can’t begin to understand a place until we’ve had at least one good conversation with a local!
Fascinating. I've worked with a lot of Moldovan adult students and loved them all. They have hearty laughs, a good sense of humour, like a party and their faces light up at the mention of their home country. They are also smart, but perhaps that's why they're here in the UK, working as hard as they can to send money back home.1 or 2 drove for hours ( to London? Birmingham? ) so they could vote for that new pro EU president. A local charity thar delivers to Ukraine also sends items regularly to Moldova, the poverty is very real.
I have only spent two weeks there but loved the babushkas selling fresh flowers and enjoyed the pickled cabbage in the markets. They make a delicious apricot drink and the weaving are beautiful. If you can find a fabric store you would love their fabric they use to wrap their bread in and they have wonderful ribbon full of pattern and color. The people are oppressed and stoic except for the Christians. They are hilarious and fun. Not talking about the Orthodox Church but those that risk their life to tell others about Jesus. I have met some amazing and beautiful people there.
I think this is the first long piece I've read about Chisnau and Moldova, a place I've been intrigued both because I'm interested in places off the usual path and because a friend went skiing there. Given that we usually go to a place for at least a month, I'm not entirely certain where your story has me feeling about going there myself.
Why not change your name to Bess of Arabia? Would make you sound a little more interesting.
Funny and engaging piece—and now I’d love to know more about your Bessarabian roots!
This one is so funny. You’re Bessarabian!
Thank you! And yes, I guess I am!
Ciao Lisa, I'm thrilled that you chose to visit and write about Chișinău! My wife and I spent an unforgettable week in Moldova for research on a 2011 wine feature in The Sommelier Journal. Our pal Jeff G. gave a nod in NYT's "What We're Reading" which really helped accelerate things in an industry ripe for international discovery. You really captured the capital's impenetrableness. I'll never forget the contrast of a run-down-looking metropolis with its bustling national opera and theatre. Maybe you also saw that Moldova's riches don't present in usual manners. Oh... and did everyone applaud when you landed? I hadn't experienced that before until our flight from Lisbon hit Chișinău and the plane erupted in cheers. Last thing... your time is 👌. I opened a bottle of Purcari (my fave Moldova winery) because Decanter's assigned to me a revisit of Moldova now fifteen years later. Who knows what the editor will change it to, but the opening line in my submitted draft is, "One of the wine world's most profound transformations is happening in Eastern Europe." Let's get more people talking about (and visiting) this fascinating country. PS. When can you, me and Emma Bentley clink cups of Moldova vino in Verona? Fondest, j.Tesauro https://www.themodgent.com/blog-edit/moldova
Jason! Your ears must have been burning because I was just telling Emma, when she was in Copenhagen a couple of weeks ago, that she should meet you. In any case, yes, I loved Moldova for its deep and quirky Moldova-ness, and although my introduction to its wines was scattershot at best, I’m more than happy to become an acolyte. ❤️
Can't wait to get back and jump into some zama and plăcinta. I loved the food there so very much. Everyone we met, whether or not they had electricity or a second pair of shoes, shared the bounty of their gardens and whatever was bubbling on the stove. The generosity of spirit made as much an impression as the texture of those wines. And yes yes to Emma... always room for new fab friends.
Enjoyed this in-depth piece very much. And it proves that we can’t begin to understand a place until we’ve had at least one good conversation with a local!
Very true!
Your Moldovian essay brings to mind one of my favorite mantras: "If you never, never go, you'll never, never know."
Words to live by!
I loved reading this (and finding out you have Moldovan blood!) Your encounter with Mihail made me laugh so hard that I started crying a little.
That is high praise. Thank you!
Thoroughly enjoyed reading but you haven’t sold it to me as I place I want to visit 😂
Fascinating. I've worked with a lot of Moldovan adult students and loved them all. They have hearty laughs, a good sense of humour, like a party and their faces light up at the mention of their home country. They are also smart, but perhaps that's why they're here in the UK, working as hard as they can to send money back home.1 or 2 drove for hours ( to London? Birmingham? ) so they could vote for that new pro EU president. A local charity thar delivers to Ukraine also sends items regularly to Moldova, the poverty is very real.
This is the kind of travel writing that makes you want to book a ticket to nowhere you've heard of.....
Thank you for the highest of praise!
I have only spent two weeks there but loved the babushkas selling fresh flowers and enjoyed the pickled cabbage in the markets. They make a delicious apricot drink and the weaving are beautiful. If you can find a fabric store you would love their fabric they use to wrap their bread in and they have wonderful ribbon full of pattern and color. The people are oppressed and stoic except for the Christians. They are hilarious and fun. Not talking about the Orthodox Church but those that risk their life to tell others about Jesus. I have met some amazing and beautiful people there.
Apricot drink and bread wrapping fabric?! Clearly I need to go back!
I think this is the first long piece I've read about Chisnau and Moldova, a place I've been intrigued both because I'm interested in places off the usual path and because a friend went skiing there. Given that we usually go to a place for at least a month, I'm not entirely certain where your story has me feeling about going there myself.
Oh, go! If only so we can compare notes
I think maybe you need to go to Paris.
Now where’s the fun in that?
What at an ending! Also do you end up having any wine? I’ve heard it’s pretty decent?
I had a Feteasca neagre , which I quite enjoyed. But as Mihail would readily tell you, I have shitty taste
😂 I wonder what Mihail does like...
What an adventure and some laughs and a surprise ending. Bravo!
Thank you! And yes, definitely a surprise!
A charming and very interesting story, Lisa.
Thank you, Alec!